ChinaKnowledge.de -
An Encyclopaedia on Chinese History and Literature

Shanjia qinggong 山家清供

Sep 1, 2023 © Ulrich Theobald

Shanjia qinggong 山家清供 "Simple and pure cuisine of Master Mountain Dwelling" is a book on diet written during the Southern Song period 南宋 (1127-1279) by Lin Hong 林洪, courtesy name Longluo 龍落 or Keshan 可山 (?), style Keshan Ren 可山人 or Longfa 龍發.

Lin's book has a length of 2 juan and presents the recipes for 100 different dishes of all kinds, from beverages to vegetable-and-meet combinations (caiyao 菜肴), pastry (miandian 麵點), rice and congees (zhou 粥). The dishes make use of garden vegetables, wild vegetables, melons, pumpkins and fruits, as well as a wide range of pulses, and among the meats, domesticated and wild animals, fishes and crustacea. For each type of food, is social and historical background is briefly mentioned, and the author then goes on to describe the ingredients, preparation, and special features of the food, all written in an elegant literary style.

Quite a number of therapeutic preparations are included. For example, pine pollen (songhuafen 松花粉) and honey were used to make pine cake (songhuangbing 松黃餅), Rehmannia glutinosa, a type of broomrape (dihuang 地黃), was mixed with juice and flour to make botuo 餺飥 cakes, flat peaches (mitao 蟠桃, Prunus persica f. compressa) and rice were used to cook "peach rice" (mitao fan 蟠桃飯), and yellow chrysanthemum flowers (huangjuhua 黃菊花) and rice are combined to "golden rice" (jinfan 金飯). All of these diets have certain therapeutic effects.

The book also includes several outstanding dishes, for example, oranges filled with crab meat and then steamed (xie niang cheng 蟹釀橙), and steamed lotus buns (lianfang yubao 蓮房魚包) with mandarin fish (guiyu 鱖魚, Siniperca chuatsi) in hollowed-out tender lotus seed heads. Another example is the "broth of snow and rosy clouds" (xuexia geng 雪霞羹) made of tofu and cotton rose (furong hua 芙蓉花, Hibiscus mutabilis), or the "Three crisp tastes of a mountain family" (shanjia san cui 山家三脆) made of blanched young bamboo shoots, small mushrooms (xiao xun 小蕈) and Chinese wolfberries (gouqi tou 枸杞頭) with seasoning, plum-flower dumplings (meihua tangbing 梅花湯餅) made of dough pressed with the help of an iron mould into the shape of a blossom and cooked in chicken broth, or "victuals emanating rosy clouds" (bo xia gong 撥霞供), a kind of shabu-shabu (shuanrou 涮肉) made of rabbit meat, pig or lamb.

In addition to these recipes, the book also includes a few phrases about local cooking customs, like the proverb that dishes were good as long as they tasted good – predetermined recipes were not necessary.

The book is found in the series Shuofu 說郛, Yimen guangdu 夷門廣牘, Xiaoshi Shanfang congshu 小石山房叢書 and Congshu jicheng chubian 叢書集成初編.

Sources:
Fang Xiaoyi 方笑一. 2022. "Fu meishi yi Song yun: Li Hong Shanjia qinggong de yinshi shuxie ji qi wenhua shi yiyi 賦美食以宋韻:林洪《山家清供》的飲食書寫及其文化史意義." Wenhua yishu yanjiu 文化藝術研究 15 (6): 36-42+112.
Li Jianliang 李劍亮. 1999. "Shanjia qinggong 山家清供." In Zhongguo shihua cidian 中國詩話辭典, edited by Jiang Zuyi 蔣祖怡, and Chen Zichun 陳志椿, 348. Beijing: Beijing chubanshe.
Li Jingwei 李經緯, et al., eds. 1995. Zhongyi da cidian 中醫大辭典, 111. Beijing: Renmin weisheng chubanshe.
Lü Jitang 呂繼棠. 1995. "Shanjia qinggong 山家清供." In Zhongguo pengren baike quanshu 中國烹飪百科全書, 497. Beijing: Zhongguo da baike quanshu chubanshe.
Qu Rongbo 曲榮波, and Zhang Qianqian 張倩倩. 2012. "Shanjia qinggong zhong de suxhi yangsheng sixiang tanxi 《山家清供》中的素食養生思想探析." Keji xinxi 科技信息 2012 (31): 12+16.
Shi Xuanyuan 施宣圓, et al, eds. 1987. Zhongguo wenhua cidian 中國文化辭典, 850. Shanghai: Shanghai shehui kexue xueyuan chubanshe.
Sun Xiaosheng 孫曉生, Liu Bing 劉冰, and Xu Feng 徐峰. 2013. "Songdai shiyang shiliao dedian yu Shanjia qinggong de xueshu gongxian 宋代食養食療特點與《山家清供》的學術貢獻." Xin Zhongyi 新中醫 45 (3): 211-213.
Wei Huaiyu 魏懷宇, and Zhang Yuan 章原. 2018. "Shanjia qinggong yu Songdai shiliao wenhua 《山家清供》與宋代食療文化." Zhongyiyao wenhua 中醫藥文化 13 (1): 76-79.
Xu Ruiyao 徐睿瑶, and Li Junde 李俊德. 2015. "Shanjia qinggong zhong de Zhongyi shiliao yangsheng sixiang chutan 《山家清供》中的中醫食療養生思想初探." Shijie Zhong-Xiyi jiehe zazhi 世界中西醫結合雜誌 10 (5): 599-601+604.
Yu Wenzhong 于文忠. 1991. "Shanjia qinggong de shiliao tedian 《山家清供》的食療特點." Zhongyi zazhi 中醫雜誌 1991 (3): 53.
Zhang Weiqiong 張煒瓊, and Zhang Qicheng 張其成. 2023. "Li Hong Shanjia qinggong yinshi yangsheng sixiang tanze 林洪《山家清供》飲食養生思想探賾." Zhongguo Zhongyi jichu yixue zazhi 中國中醫基礎醫學雜誌 29 (5): 712-715.
Zhuang Shufan 莊樹藩, ed. 1990. Zhonghua gu wenxian da cidian 中華古文獻大辭典, vol. Yiyao 醫藥卷, 8. Changchun: Jilin wenshi chubanshe.
蜀漢 (221-263)